Saturday 19 September 2020

The withering of Withernsea

The seaside town of Withernsea is a regular destination for my work. 

On a map it sits on the North Sea Coast some 26 miles to the east of the City of Hull. In the mid 1800's it was not much more than a hamlet with a resident population of 107 souls engaged in inshore fishing and the usual range of rural and ancillary activities and services. 

The catalyst for its expansion and at quite a rapid rate was the connection by railway line to the national network through Hull and this saw an increase in the population to 2000 by 1903. All seemed poised for the establishing of a thriving resort town and at the turn of the twentieth century it was predicted that within 50 years the town could expect to have grown to around 40000. 

A newspaper correspondent for The Hull Daily Mail carried out his own investigative bit of journalism in 1903 by taking the train and spending a day in Withernsea. 

The town was not shy in self promotion and very much on the current message of using snappy three word slogans the mantra of "Withernsea Wants Visitors" was bandied about. 

This was followed up by enticements to come and see the seaside attractions of amusements, restaurants, donkey rides, musicians and the ever present Pierrot mime artists. Withernsea was seen as the playground for the residents of Hull but there was strong competition as Hornsea was also reachable by railway and involving a shorter journey. 

The return fare to Withernsea was, in 1903, the sum of 18 pence and for that outlay this specific day-tripper commented on the ancient railway carriages, seat cushion springs being lumpy and out of level and the rather unhygienic accumulation of biscuit crumbs and orange peel strewn around. The railway line ran through the eastern suburbs, Marfleet and then to Hedon before going cross country through Holderness past sleepy platforms just on the edges of the the villages of Keyingham, Ottringham and Patrington. My wife's grandfather lived as crossing keeper on this route. There was also a dropping off point at Winestead for well to do guests at The White Hall, a large country house. 

Our correspondent remarked that Withernsea Station was quite small but with a view immediately onto the towers that were the sole remains of what had been a major tourist asset- a Pier. Unfortunately it had been destroyed by a storm stricken ship and never reinstated. 

The picture presented of the principal Queen Street was not that complimentary in that it was not much more than a rough carriageway requiring kerbs although with signs of work in progress. 

In 1903 some villa style terraced houses were springing up on Southcliff and being taken up by mostly Hull folk who were attracted by the health benefits of sea air but also cheaper living costs away from the local taxes of the UK's Third Port. 

As for the beach, well, our intrepid reporter regarded it as inferior to those found, for example at Blackpool and other resorts being of soft sand and pebbley. On this day a few families were enjoying the open space or paddled in waters sticky with weeds and mussel beds. 

Mention was made of fun to be had in clambering on the crumbling boulder clay cliffs in the search for fossils, fragments of Jet, shells and bone fragments. 

There was altogether not too much by way of other amenities to write home about. 

The newspaper columnist ended with the advice to the townsfolk of Withernsea that they should wake up if material progress was to be made. That did not deter hordes of visitors though who were determined to make the most of what was in reality just 8 weeks of a season and on weekends, Bank Holidays and the annual regional shut down of industry Withernsea was invaded by many thousands arriving by excursion trains and buses. 

However, external factors conspired to disadvantage the town. 

Other North Sea resorts forged ahead to make the most of their attributes such as harbours, marinas, Castles and better accessibility from large population centres and Withernsea was relegated down in the hierarchy of popular destinations. 

The railway link fell victim to the Beeching cuts in the 1960's and the great optimism of developing into a large regional town were dashed. 

The most recent census figures from 2018 was 6458. 

The town is certainly not unique in its fortunes amongst many around the UK coastline but perhaps more hard done to than most. 

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