It has demanded many, many hours of pondering and a good deal of flair and invention.
I am talking about the age-old problem of how to stop your trousers falling down. In some situations it may be regarded as pure comedy but in everyday life and scenarios having a reliable grip on your trousers is important.
This was obviously the dilemna facing Samuel Longthorne Clemens and which in 1871 led him to file a Patent (ref; 121992) in his native United States for "Adjustable and Detachable Straps for Garments" or in plain speak- what we British call braces and the Americans, suspenders.
Clemens main priority will have been borne out of a concern for unstable trousers but any revenue from his invention will have helped to sustain him in the lean years following publication of his first book in 1869 and until he brought out, under his pen name Mark Twain, "The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn" in 1876.
Many others have contributed to the improvement in methods of keeping trousers hoisted and presentable.
Earliest references to braces and suspenders seem to be from earlier in the 18th Century when the ever fashion conscious French developed a support system. This will have coincided with the trauma of transition from breeches to the forerunners of the modern trousers. There may be a link between getting your garments under control and Revolutionary tendencies given the chain of events that took place in that part of Europe in that momentous era followed by decades of military campaigning and conquest that took Napoleon as far south as Egypt and north to Moscow.
As an indicator of the importance of having well hung trousers you need look no farther than the list of relevant patented inventions in the US and England from the time of Twain to the present day.
You would not think it possible that such a simple requirement would warrant such brain activity and resourcefulness. There have been the champions of "H" shaped suspenders, the emergence of the classic "X" profile and what we now accept as the standard "Y" configuration.
The latter years of the 19th Century saw a proliferation of Patents on both sides of the Atlantic. Albra E. Overlook of Maine in 1887 brought into play a one piece suspender with front and back straps forming the trouser connections.
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| Overlook 1887 |
Not to be outdone, Richard Lewis, a tea merchant from Middlesex, UK in the same year introduced braces for the specific purpose of suspending trousers. By 1890 Edward Moore from Kansas patented his invention of button fixings between suspenders and trousers but this would within only four years be superceded by the availability of metal clasps.
I am not sure if any statistics have ever been formulated for trouser suspender related accidents but if you have ever worn them you will be very aware and not little bit frightened about the potential for whip induced injuries from the heavy clasps on the elasticated webbing. In addition anyone observing a wearer of suspenders/braces cannot resist getting in a twang which can be both startling and smarting to the recipient. A persistent problem, tackled by Edwin Scofield of Connecticut in 1898 was his "back end improvement" to counter the working loose and release of the back straps of the "X" type suspenders and thus avoiding awkward manouvering to re-attach them if a family member or kind hearted stranger were not in attendance to offer this service.
William Fisher, coincidentally also from Connecticut, in 1899 drew attention to what he called "the complexity of a mechanism disproportionate to the requirements to be attained". He was clearly emphasising that trouser suspenders were being over -engineered to a level that was just not necessary. Carl Ludolph from Ontario, Canada sought to resolve another annoyance whereby the shoulder straps would fall away promoting much discomfort and inconvenience to the wearer.
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| Ludolph |
By the early years of the new century a few dissident voices could be seen in the Patent Registers including Alexander Warshauers 1905 invention of a "Trousers Pad" which was a thickened out waistband in conventional trousers and would dispense with the need for suspenders altogether.
Frank Zurn took this further in 1911 with the innovation of an elasticated waist. This would form, in the twentieth century and beyond perhaps the greatest threat to suspenders being able to cope with expanding waistlines as well as appealing to manufacturers in giving the economies of scale for a "one size fits all" garment.
For the first time a woman featured in the debate when in 1928 Gertrude Burns registered her Abdominal Belt system which gave further possibilities in fashion design for the female form away from the more male orientated means of support.
Braces were becoming a bit dated in style by the 1930's and a few entrepreneurs sought to offer methods to hide the unsightly straps and clasps from view. Clarence Bucholz of Ohio invented such an underclothes arrangement as did others in the same era.
As with the wearing of hats it would be the post war period that saw the decline in the use of suspenders. They became associated with the criminal fraternity or banking class both of whom attracted suspicion and mistrust.
It was popular culture in the 60's and 70's that saw a return of braces being a part of the uniform of skinheads and punks in the UK in particular.
The first decade of the 21st Century saw some resurgence in suspenders with decorative and themed designs, maternity friendly wear and as a means to control that scourge of current fashion- the saggy pants phenomena.
Just as it seems that suspenders and braces have reached a state of obsolescence they return with a new determination and prove to be relevant to a whole new generation keen not to let their trousers end up around their ankles.
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