Yorkshire Puddings

The coastal walk from Robin Hoods Bay to Whitby is spectacular.

My wife, son and myself enthused with rare energy and motivation for a weekend activity drove the 50 or so miles from home to arrive at the Old Station Car Park at the unearthly hour of 7am.

The drive from East to North Yorkshire sets the scene for a good day. Leaving behind the Metropolis that is Hull and it's satellite towns it is within minutes that you are into clear and unspoilt countryside. By-passing historic Beverley there is an undulating drive through the Wolds before the right turn into Bainton Village and across to Driffield, a real market town with local traders still holding on against the onslaught of the relentless express that is Tesco.

There is a steady climb northwards from the town with the Humber Bridge and Saltend cooling towers in view some 30 to 40 miles south on a clear morning. The spiralling sweep into Langtoft is usually accompanied by silence in the car, not out of reverence or awe but because there is no signal whatsoever for radio or phone until emerging back into broadcastable range on the upward incline.

The steepness of the Langtoft dip is in direct contrast to the very wide and shallow form of the next valley and the small hamlet of Foxholes. Such is the length of the slope down that I can regularly freewheel for a good 2 miles before engaging the gear box at the 30mph sign amongst the cluster of cottages.

Then up and down past an old Inn, now a house, which cannot get any seasonal sunlight surely, before the top of Staxton Hill. An imperial 1 in 6 descent complete with a sand filled escape route for any runaway vehicles. I have never seen this in actual use although the contents of the wide trench do appear regularly cleft by wheel tracks.

The approach to Scarborough from the south is unremarkable and I would not blame first time holidaymakers from thinking they had booked a week on an industrial estate from the extensive areas of factories, workshops and yards in view.

The town itself is exceptionally grand architecturally and although adding up to half an hour to a through journey it is always uplifting to take the South Bay, Harbour and North Bay route stealing (as the driver) a sideways view up the precipitous slopes to the Castle whilst taking care not to run into any pedestrians making the dash across to the harbourside funfair and amusements.

The A171 is the main road towards Whitby, a wide and undulating carriageway with sea views to the east and moorland behind the drystone walling against the left verge giving alternate sights of ships and sheep.

The tourist destinations are signposted with the attractions of Heavy Horses, the North York Moors railway and Boggle Hole on offer before the right turn for Robin Hoods Bay.

We have been along the same road stretch many times in anticipation of a stay in a rented cottage but the sweeping view is always breathtaking. Ravenscar sits on a steep headland to the south. This was promoted as an affluent  New Town based on railway investment but never materialised beyond a few Villas and now overgrown footings. Perhaps a very early warning of property speculation and credit crisis.

The actual quaint RHB is not yet in view as it hangs low on to the cliff face and is shored up against the waves by a huge concrete defence wall. Fylingthorpe the satellite village is functional but not attractive and then the 'T' junction with some red brick Victorian houses and car parks for visitors and residents alike.

The coastal walk sets off towards the cliff top and crosses the Rocket Field from the days of plucking stricken seafarers from the teacherous  Bay below by rope, pulley and bosuns breech. The path is well worn and close, but not too close, to the sheer face of the cliff to cause me anxiety.

There are some tricky parts where the clay on the clifftop has fallen away to leave a very narrow slippery track but with plenty of wire fence to hang on to for reassurance. The clay does hold up a lot of water and even on a summers day there can be thick quagmires on the lower crossing points for the Becks which cascade into the sea.

By 8am the path is already busy with walkers and it does get a bit tedious nodding or murmuring a greeting. The path is a short leg of the Cleveland Way, a long distance trek and well tended and patronised by the volunteers and supporters. There are some steep cut step climbs along the route but plenty of excuses to pause and catch breath in admiring the views.

The jagged outline of the ruins of Whitby Abbey drift in and out of the eyeline and then just passing the Fog horn mounted on a coastguard building a decision has to be made to press on to Whitby itself or make a left wheel for the return trip.

We unanimously voted for the latter.

We were tired and baking a bit in our sensible early morning gear now looking positively unsuited to the approaching mid morning heat. Supplies were also running a bit low.

After some roadwork, jarring on knees after the grass covered clay, the recommended route takes the course of the long dismantled railway. The surface is in a loose dressed slag based material and very sapping to tired legs. The course of the former line may have represented an engineering marvel for the early 19th Century but to the pedestrian it is very boring and feet and time drag incessantly.

The elevated course gives a view over the earlier route now dotted with cagoule or 't' shirt clad ramblers but some hours behind our ambitious schedule.

At last, back into the upper part of Robin Hoods Bay and the purchase of chocolate bars, crisps and coke from the village shop to sustain the drive back. We ache and have very sunburnt features that will certainly give some discomfort later. We have completed our mission, not altogether in good style, but in good spirits and with an overwhelming feeling of achievement.

In all must be 10-12 miles but that can be accurately measured and verified at some later date.......